Banarasi Sarees

What is a Banarasi Saree?

Banarasi sarees are a type of handwoven silk saree that originated in Varanasi (also known as Banaras) in Uttar Pradesh, India. These sarees have been worn by women all over India for over 500 years, representing the finest in craftsmanship. While Banarasi sarees have been used for weddings and special occasions, they also continue to be an important part of South Asian culture today.

Due to their unique designs, Banarasi sarees are sold worldwide, making them one of the most popular types of ethnic wear in the world. Furthermore, Banarasi sarees represent a major part of the bridalwear market for ethnic clothing. A true Banarasi saree has a heavy weaving, with silver and/or gold zari, and is made from 100 percent mulberry silk. The time taken to create the design of a Banarasi saree varies greatly, from 15 days to many months. Because of this lengthy process, Banarasi sarees are highly sought after by collectors and buyers.

Materials Used in Banarasi Sari

The Traditional Banarasi sari is made entirely from pure silk, most often Mulberry Silk which allows for the entire piece to have its signature softness and shine

There is also real Gold / Silver Zari (Gold/Silver threaded) on the custom made Banarasi saris, however, the majority of these custom made saris are now typically done using standard metallic coated wire to reflect the look at a more commercial price level.

When weaving, there are three main materials to create a Banarasi sari; the Base Silk (Weft and Warp), Zari Thread (for the surface embroidery) and the additional weft thread to make the Brocade pattern. The quality of the Bananarsi sari is based on the quality of silk, purity of Zari and the tightness of the weave and number of threads used.

Katan Silk, Organza (Kora) and Georgette are all produced in making Banarasi saris depending on the desired style and purpose for wearing them. Katan is the most traditional of the fabrics; the fabric is produced by twisting together two threads of silk into a single strand in order to give the end fabric extra strength. Organza is lighter in weight than Katan and is oftentimes used when in a warmer climate. Georgette is similar to Katan and Organza, but due to its flowing drape has become a popular fabric within today’s fashion.

How Are Banarasi Sarees Made

The way that Banarasi sarees are made is first to take raw silk that has dye on it and then to dye it in the correct color(s) then put the silk on the loom and weave the finished piece. When weaving on a pit loom or frame loom, the weaver uses their feet to operate foot pedals to move the various threads needed to complete the weave.

Before they start to weave, the weaver will take their graph paper design for the finished piece and using a punched card system (Jacquard Mechanism), program what is going to be woven for each weaving in of the pieces. One of the major differences between banarasi brocade and all other types of fabric is that banarasi brocade is woven into the material as opposed to being printed or embroidered on the top of the material.

While they are weaving the banarasi saree, the weaver uses zero thread as an additional weft material throughout the entire weaving process to create different motifs, some examples of commonly used motifs include floral patterns, paisley patterns, kalga (Mango Patterns), jali (Net Patterns), and various representations of Mughal Architecture. The border of the saree and the last part of the saree (the pallu) are generally the most elaborate pieces to create when weaving a saree and therefore require the greatest skill to complete.

After the saree has been woven, the weaver checks for broken threads, uneven tension, and pattern accuracy prior to washing, light starching and pressing the finished piece prior to retailing the finished saree.

Different Types of Banarasi Sarees

Katan Silk Sarees -

The Katan Banarasi saree is the oldest and most traditional of all Banarasi silk sarees, crafted from pure, twisted silk threads. They are the heaviest, and have more structure than other types of Banarasi sarees, and feature the heaviest and the richest use of zari. This makes these sarees ideal for wear at weddings and formal events.

Organza (Kora) Sarees -

The Kora Banarasi saree is made of a light, stiff, sheer fabric that is created through a different type of weaving. Because they are lighter than Katan, Kora sarees are great for summer events and destination weddings.

Georgette Banarasi Sarees -

These sarees are created from a crinkled silk base, which allows them to drape more fluidly than Katan or Organza sarees. As a result, they are equally suitable for both traditional and fusion wear and have gained popularity with younger generations.

Shattir Sarees - Shattir Banarasi sarees are a relatively unknown type of Banarasi sarees, created with extra threads that get cut after weaving. Because of their unique texture, many collectors consider Shattir sarees to be truly rare.

Tissue Banarasi Sarees -

Tissue Banarasi sarees are made with gold or silver threads woven throughout the saree, and are known for their metallic sheen. Tissue sarees are usually worn for evening events, or large formal occasions.

Importance of Banarasi Sarees

A Banarasi saree is an important component of a bride's wardrobe in Northern India. Usually, traditional brides choose either a heavy embroidered saree in red or ivory as their wedding dress. Additionally, a saree will likely be presented as a gift or part of the festivities during many of the major Indian festivals, such as Diwali, Navratri, and EID. Therefore, they will tend to be present at various cultural celebrations across India.

Several of the unique properties of this fabric, plus the growing interest in fashion towards Banarasi fabrics, has led to many instances of different styles of Banarasi fabrics being used creatively in non-traditional ways (as wraps and/or other garments). For example, many of today’s designers, both contemporary and traditional, are using Banarasi fabrics as materials for blouses, lehengas and other fusion style clothing, as well as for many contemporary home decor items such as cushion covers, wall art and table runners. Therefore, there are many examples of how versatile this fabric can be between the two differing styles of clothing (i.e., Western vs. Indian).

Advantages of Wearing Banarasi Sarees

The silk used to make a Banarasi saree has a natural ability to regulate the temperature of those wearing it. So regardless of whether it is summer or winter you will be comfortable in a Banarasi saree. The technique used to create the zari work on a Banarasi saree means that if you use real gold or silver threads and properly care for your Banarasi saree, your saree will last for many years without oxidising (changing colour).

Every saree made from Banarasi silk is created as a handmade piece of artwork, meaning no two sarees created are actually identical. Hence, they are considered an inherent luxury item that is hard to replicate on a large scale; hence, if you store your Banarasi saree correctly (wrapped in a muslin cloth and stored in a moisture-free area), you can pass it through many generations without it losing its original state.

Choose The Right Banarasi Saree for Your Wedding

Determine the event — a bridal gown is Katan with much bigger zari for heavier embellishments than lighter georgette or organza for daytime wear; this helps in knowing the appropriate fabric to buy. Check if the Zari is good quality by looking at the underside of the sari; with a genuine zari pattern you will see a much finer thread. If it has a machine made zari pattern it will be inconsistent and not as neat and consistent looking.

Make sure when purchasing an authentic Banasi sari to ask for a GI (Geographical Indication) Tag. This tag will designate that the sari was woven within the city of Varanasi by one of the licensed weave masters.

When shopping online or through boutique shops ask about the weavers name or source of the sale; This is another way to assure that you have supported the traditional art of weaving.